The Maytag Bravos clothes dryer started squealing and squeaking while drying clothes. I used the following procedure to fix the problem. Follow along on this picture guide if you are having similar issues! I hope this can help you if you are suffering from a really loud dryer…!
This is a relatively simple repair. The reason it is squealing is that the bearings are starting to go bad in the guide wheels of the dryer drum. Replace those wheels, and the squealing will go away.
Note: If your dryer is “Screeching,” this could be a different problem. The felt seal around the drum may have failed. Check out this post to fix a “metal-on-metal” screeching sound coming from your dryer!
This roller bearing repair takes a couple of hours one evening or on the weekend. Order the parts kit ahead of time, and have the tools handy, and you won’t have any problem finishing this repair in several hours, less if you consider yourself handy.
The exact model of dryer shown in this guide is the Maytag Bravos Model# MEDB850WQ0. This repair and kit also works for the Whirlpool Duet Model# WED8300SW0 (and WED8300SW1) with a few minor differences in taking off the front panel. In fact, it will work for most Whirlpool, Maytag (built after 2007), Kenmore and KitchenAid dryers as long as they have the door-mounted lint screen. This dryer has a 27-inch drum.
Here is a picture of the front panel of the dryer used in this repair guide in case it is helpful for identification purposes.
Parts Needed for this repair:
The link below is to the correct replacement parts kit on Amazon. The part number is included as well, in case you want to look for it somewhere else:
Tools Required for this repair:
- 5/16 in socket (or wrench)
- Flat screwdriver
- Metal paint scraper
Replace the Bearings in the Dryer
The first step is to unplug the unit.
Then you will want to flip up the top of the dryer. In order to be able to do that, pull it out a little way from the wall. Then press the clips to release the top using the paint scraper.
Press in the 2 tabs using a thin metal paint scraper to lift the top lid, as shown in the photo below. There are 2 tabs, one on either side of the door.
This is a close-up view of one of the metal tab (green) that you are pressing inward to release the top lid.
After the lid is flipped up, you need to remove 2 screws on the backside of the front panel, one on each side, with the 5/16th socket to take off the front panel. You can see the screw-head in the image below.
After the 2 screws are out, lift up on the front panel to unhitch it from the notches holding it in place on the bottom.
This is a view of the dryer with the top flipped up and the front panel removed.
This is a close up view of the tabs on the bottom that the front panel hitches in to.
Take off 6 more screws to remove inner front panel, and set it aside. There is one wiring harness that you can unplug if you want to create more space to work, but it is not really necessary. Alternatively you can set the inner front panel off to the side.
This is the inner front panel. Notice the wheel bearings. You will be replacing those.
Now remove the drum and the belt.
Tip: Before you remove the drum and drum belt, study carefully how the belt is routed, so that you can remember how it goes when it comes time to reassemble it.
Here is a view of the way that the belt is routed around the tensioner and the drum.
Reach under the exposed drum and press the tensioner arm to release the belt that is wrapped around the drum and the motor. It is relatively easy just to pull the belt off.
Note: The belt you want to remove is the one going around the drum (seen on the top of the drum in the photo below), not the fan belt, leave that one in place. (That one is visible several photos later).
Lift up on the drum to remove it, being careful not to damage the felt gasket around the drum.
This is a close up view of the tensioner arm (with white plastic wheel attached to it), with the belt dangling, after the drum has been removed.
This is an excellent opportunity to vacuum out the dust and lint that has accumulated!
This is a view with the drum and drum belt removed.
Now you will take the repair kit and replace the 4 wheels (they look like Rollerblade wheels).
The repair kit consists of the following items:
Take off all the wheels. To do this, use a flat screwdriver to pry off the triangular plastic clips holding them in place.
Clean off the black stuff that has undoubtedly accumulated on the wheel shafts, then put on the new wheels, and slide the plastic clips back on to hold the wheels in place.
Note: The first time I did this repair, I didn’t have the repair kit, so I just took of the wheels, cleaned them and the shafts, and reassembled the dryer, but the dryer still squealed! The second time I did the repair, I replaced the wheels, and the squealing has now stopped. The dryer has been quiet now for 2 years since this repair was done.
It is not necessary to lubricate the wheels. The bearings are already pre-lubricated.
You want the wheels to spin 1-2 turns when you give them a whirl.
Also replace the white plastic tensioner wheel.
Now, put the belt around the drum and lift it into place and set it back onto the wheels. Make sure that the felt gasket is not folded under, and is even around the circumference of the drum.
Then reach under the drum and feed the belt around the motor and the tensioner arm.
Reassemble the 2 front panels in the reverse order that you took them off.
Plug in the unit and give it a try.
I hope this fixed your problem. This is quite a simple repair that requires very few tools. For more information, check out the repair kit on Amazon:
I hope you found this helpful! If so, please let me know about it in the comments section below!
Would you characterize your dryer as “Screeching” instead of “Squealing”? (Subtle difference, I know!) Then you may have a failed dryer seal! Check this out:
Having issues with your Maytag Bravos Washing Machine, too? Does it sound very loud, like a jet engine? Check out this post for the procedure to replace the bearings in your washer!